DECORTING & WEARING THE LIGHT INFANTRY CAP HAT - a step-by-step guide to sartorial glory!
STEP 7 - Finishing Touches

Depending on which company you belong to, the style and finishing decorations to your hat cap may differ.

Other Ranks 1st Batt. Watt's Coy. Duncan's Coy. 2nd Batt. Singleton's Coy.
Round shield with white lace
Square visored shell with black lace
Red horse hair
Black horse hair cockade
Black silk turban

Sergeant 1st Batt. Watt's Coy.
Chevron shield with silver lace
Square visored shell with black lace
Red horse hair
Black horse hair cockade
5" black ostrich plume
Black silk turban

Officer 1st Batt. Watt's Coy.
Chevron shield with silver lace
Square visored shell with black ribbon lace
Red horse hair
Black silk cockade
12" black ostrich plume
Black silk turban with silver basting lace
Silver Brittainia Badge

Officer 2nd Batt. Singleton's Coy.
Chevron shield with gold lace
Square visored shell with black ribbon lace
Red horse hair
Black silk cockade
12" black ostrich plume
Black silk turban with gold basting lace
Silver Brittainia Badge
STEP 8 - Applying Other Ranks Decorations

HORSE HAIR - Horse hair plumes are usually issued with the 1st Battalion Cap Kit. The plumes are secured to the shield by punching two small holes in the upper center of the shield and running a length of lace or string through. The lace is tied off behind the shield, around the stalk of the horse hair plume.

Use steam from a tea kettle to train the plume to fall over the front left side of the visor. The plume should be trimmed with scissors and should not fall more than half an inch beyond the visor.

You may need to use binder clips to hold your hair in place over night in order to get a nice sweeping forward horse hair plume that falls in the correct fashion.

You can also condition the horse hair with a fine comb, breel creme or pomade.

COCKADE - Cockades are usually issued with the Cap Kit. The Cockade rests on the absolute left side of the cap shell. Cockades should be secured by running lace through the hat at the left side. A waistcoat "RP" or "KRR" button should be sewn or secured with wire (by punching a hole through the hat and running thin wire through the hole) with the lace looping over the button.

The cockade should rest within this lace / button configuration.

OSTRICH PLUMES - 2 plumes should be bound and sewn at the root directly to behind the cockade. Plumes should be no more than 5 inches tall and should just slightly peek over the crown.

SILK TURBAN - The Turban is one of the trickiest parts of decorating your hat. Silk is a finicky fabric so patience is required when working with it.

To add a silk scarf as a turban make a loop with the scarf and tie a small not at the end. Tuck the tied knot in behind the shield (NOT the back).

Secure the turban in place with a large basting stitch (looped in and out) all the way around the hat. Each stitch should be at a 45 degree angle going around.



STEP 9 - Wearing the Hat


The hat cap is a really unforgiving piece of head gear. EXAMPLE: If you are one of those fellows who likes to look at your feet while you march, break the habit now. You'll look like a complete goof, regardless of how you are wearing your hat. There's just no room for cheating in a hat cap.

Wearers of the hat cap will either look like dunces or look really sharp and military. It all depends on how one wears the hat.

There is a tendency to wear the hat cap like a modern baseball cap. That is, resting on the back part of the head. This is wrong.

The correct way to wear a hat cap is the same way one would wear a cocked hat. The cap should lean forward and the visor should just barely cover your field of vision if you are standing straight and looking forward. (standing at attention)

If you have a cap hat with horse plumes there's a really easy way to tell if you are wearing your hat correctly. If the hair plume falls forward over the visor, it's on correctly.

By wearing the hat cap in this manner you can give off the same illusion modern Horse Guards helmets give when they appear to cover the eyes of the wearer.

If you are standing straight and confident with your head up the effect is very martial..

If you are slouching with the hat sitting on the back of your head, even slightly, the whole figure is ruined.

Again, the hat cap is very unforgiving. Make sure you wear it correctly.


STEP 10 - Hat Maintenance








With a cocked hat, the more mashed-up and worn the hat becomes the better it looks (within reason).

This is NOT the case with the hat cap. Similar to wearing the hat, the care of the hat cap is equally unforgiving.

These hats cannot simply be thrown in the back of the car with stuff piled over them. They should always be stored at on top with nothing putting pressure on them.

In addition, shields should be trained to tilt forward, hair plumes regularly brushed and conditioned.

The good news is no matter how chewed-up your hat becomes, refurbishing it is possible and easy.

With any hat, the felt often becomes flimsy. On a hat cap if the shield becomes flimsy over time it's going to look bad.

To stiffen your felt, simply mix 3 parts Methel Hydrate Alcohol and 1 part Orange Shellac, available at any decent hardware store.

Paint the mixture gently over any weakened felt areas. The more layers the stiffer the felt becomes.

Sometimes a hat may need total disassembly, washing, dyeing and re-blocking.

No matter how much of a moth eaten, worm ridden, sun bleached disaster your hat becomes. Don't worry, it can be fixed.

Never throw out a hat that appears un savable



This concludes the cap kit guide. Your finished hat should look something like the hat to the left.

If you have any trouble or questions in constructing or fixing up your hat feel free to contact your Officers for assistance.



The King's Royal Yorkers